fortresses in austria, boots in venice, cabbage in slovenia, and the rest of fall break

An epic fall break: venice, slovenia, Austria, and England

Ahh what an amazing 10 days! I just came back from my fall break, which was our midway break of the semester. I can’t believe I’m already halfway through this adventure!

a few weeks ago on Thursday I finished my last final and immediately left for the train station for Venice. I got off the train in Venice two hours later and was greeted by mom and dad!!! I was soo excited to finally see them, and right when we all hugged it felt like I’d only seen them a week ago. We caught up on the walk back to the hotel and did a little sightseeing on the way- Venice was so so beautiful. When I went last time for a day with Mary, it was pouring rain and freezing, which made Venice dirty and gross…but this time it was a completely different experience. Anyways, we walked back to our hotel (not without stopping for some Moretti’s beer first) and it was a shock- the hotel was GORGEOUS. Dad is close with Hilton Hotels, so we got to stay in this amazingly huge Hilton right in Venice. I tried to take some pics of it- it honestly looked like a palace. The only shame was that it was across a little river, so you had to take the free ferry to get actually on the main island. Still, totally worth it. They had to sneak me in so we didn’t get charged extra for the third person, but it worked out well- we ended up saving 255 euros! It was such a big hotel I would just walk out by myself and no one would question it. That night we ventured out for dinner, and found this perfect Italian place- except it was all full for the night. We were a little let down, since Mom and Dad had already been there for one night and said that their first dinner was so-so…a French place with a rude waitress. Plus it didn’t help that some woman spilled red wine all down my dad’s pants…but anyway, we just kept looking until we found some little place right around the corner that didn’t look as promising. WHAT A SURPRISE. Rated as the best meal of the entire week. We had a great waiter/cook who just fed us what he said was the best- and this included an appetizer of fresh meats and the freshest buffalo mozzarella I’ve ever seen. It was wrapped in more cheese and when u poked at the ball with a knife, all this silky mozzarella came oozing out. So delicious. And then we all got fresh pastas- I got mushroom lasagna, mom got mushroom gnocchi, and dad got my fave- fresh spinach and ricotta ravioli in a sage and butter sauce. Then we split a tiramisu for desert. Overall, it was a perfect first night of fall break in Venice!

The next morning we had a good sleep in and then literally spent the entire day meandering around beautiful Venice. The weather was great, so we saw Saint Marks square first (nice, but touristy) and then walked in and out of shops and took pics on all the bridges. It’s just such a cool city. We all got some goodies- dad got a man purse- sorry, I mean satchel- which is really nice, perfect for fashionable new york- mom got a nice small leather bag and some amazing red boots, and I finally got real leather boots! They’re plain black, but really tall and soo comfy. i think I’ll get some good wear out of them. We were looking all day and kinda gave up but then dad found this tiny store around a corner where 2 older men were selling leather shoes in an old-fashioned store- I tried them on and we just knew. Love when that happens! Anyways, lunch was fun because dad and I went into a deli and just had the guy make us a fresh sandwich with salame, cheese and sun dried tomatoes. Some gelato later (not as good as in Florence!), some more walking around, more pics, it was just a fun, relaxing day. Then we had a happy hour at this great little bar where we met a Canadian couple who also loved to travel, and I ordered a martini bianco- my new fave drink that I don’t think they have in the states! And for dinner we went back to the first place we saw the night before, and funny thing is, it wasn’t that good. Not half as good as the place with the mozzarella. We got pizza which wasn’t any better than a good iron hill pizza (I miss iron hill…)

Ahh so the next morning was bright and early. We got up at the crack of dawn and headed for the long commute to the airport to get our car. The water taxis are crazy in Venice…cold and rocky..moms and my feet were freezing! But we got the car (not after having some delicious crossaints and coffees in the airport) and, with the maps in hand, went off to Ljubljana, Slovenia!

We got to slovenia (after driving through some confusing street tolls and worrying about going to jail for not paying the toll) and found the hotel- it was realllly nice. They receptionist taught us how to say hi in Slovenian- Dober dahn! But that’s all we knew the entire day. Anyways, we basically unpacked and headed towards the old town- and it was so beautiful. Really quaint, and kind of a mixture of modern and older-looking buildings. A lot of young college students were out drinking coffee and relaxing , which was fun to see, and there was a long river going through the entire town (pics on facebook as usual). We got there around lunch time so we headed toward the local market and saw some fun things- EVERYONE was selling cabbage! Just out of huge buckets, and ppl were buying a lot of it. Other than the cabbage a lot of the food reminded me of the central market in italy- cheeses, salami, meat, chicken and beef and stuff. We started off by buying “burek,” a local Slovenian snack that sounded better than it tasted. It’s filo (philo?) pastry filled with savory things like cheese or meat…we got one with cheese and it was just really stodgy looking (what mom said..) kinda greasy and heavy. But we were hungry so we still ate it of course! Then we walked around the market and dad bought enough cheese for lunch and then literally 6 slices of salami, which was kind of embarrassing but funny. We snacked and walked around Ljubljana all day (except for a quick pit stop back at the hotel where we all fell asleep, me with my boots still on)…we walked down the river, through the streets, and into some stores. Later that day we climbed up to this amazing castle and got some great views- there was even a wedding going on at the castle! It was just a perfect day. Really cool city. Who can say that they’ve been to slovenia? Even now back in italy, when I tell people I went there most of them don’t even know where it is! Which honestly I didn’t know either…but I’m glad to say I’ve been there.

That night we ate at this traditional Slovenian restaurant, and the atmosphere was great- big wooden tables, a tavern-style room and a fun waiter. (we had asked the front desk for a good Slovenian place, and dad ended up asking “do you know a good traditional restaurant? You know, somewhere that serves cabbage…?” and the woman didn’t even answer him hahahahahha) We definitely got our fill of meat that night- mom got deer with a cherry sauce, dad got game goulash, and I got “country feast”- sausages, pork, and more and more meat. I didn’t even know what it all was. But everything was great! And fun! We DIDN’T order the fried bull testicles that were offered on the menu…. Still, that didn’t stop us from using the bathroom every hour the next day….from all that meat

The next morning we had a good sleep in and drove to Salzburg, which was our first beautiful drive- the pics are on fbook, but these snow-topped mountains we passed are just beautiful. We kept taking pictures of the same thing but we couldn’t help it! We reached Salzburg, where the temp had dropped about 20 degrees, and luckily found our hotel. It was owned by this funny old Austrian woman who was little cooky but genuinely nice. That first day we just explored a little bit- Salzburg has another river cutting down the center, so we crossed the river and headed into old town. The set-up of the town is amazing- if you see in the pictures, the old town is compacted into a big rectangular area, and then overlooking the town is a huge cliff/mountain with a FORTRESS on it, which dates back to the 12th century. Its amazingly beautiful!! And the architecture of the buildings is so different from Florence- very 17th century…pale colors and quaint, 2 story buildings with white framed windows…I think I could have studied abroad there. I loved it. That night we ended up getting a drink in this cozy little bar and then by dinner time we wanted something different- so we got greek. And let me just say it was THE BEST GREEK FOOD EVER. Who woulda thought there’d be good greek food in AUSTRIA? But we knew it’d be good because it was packed by 6 pm by locals…we split this appetizer with different types of hummus and spreads, olives, breads, and then mom got the moussaka, dad got calamari (by accident, but it ended up being amazing) and I got this vegetable lasagna with eggplant and other delish veggies…ALL AMAZING. We kept raving. The atmostphere was great too. One of the top dishes of the week!

The next day we spent the entire morning exploring the old town…we saw where Mozart was born, we went into this beautiful church, dad found an internet café so he could check the phillies’ scores, and we all just had a fun, relaxing day out. In the afternoon the 3 of us paid to climb the fortress and it was totally worth it. We took this scary elevator all the way up the mountain and took some epic pictures of Austria and the mountains…the fortress has an amazing history, just like any medieval castle, so it was a perfect afternoon. That night we were actually gonna go back to Greek for dinner (yes it was that good) but it was closed, so we impulsively ate next door at his Austrian place and it turned out to be a good decision- I had my best meal of the week. Pork wrapped in bacon with a honey mustard sauce. Something about it (probably the bacon) made it soo delicious!! I savored every bite. My BEST MEAL!!

The next morning we packed up early and got in the car to head for…wherever! We didn’t know where we were heading…turns out 9 hours later we arrive in Florence, Italy. But the day wasn’t wasted…the drive was soo much fun.. we went through like 5 different climates…passed more alps…went through Italian mountains, which were completely different…stopped in a random town in italy trying to find a stupid deli which never happened…got in a fight when we were close to florence because apparently I can’t read road signs…had to reverse at a toll stop because dad went into the wrong aisle…and FINALLY arrived in Florence arount 5 pm. We ate at Gusto Osteria, a perfect local place where we feasted on soup, salad, gnocchi with ricotta and eggplant, pasta with olives, and just some good comfort Italian food. And the night was completed with my parents trying gelato at the best place in Florence. We got dark chocolate and hazelnut, My favoriteee!

When we woke up Wednesday, we were about to have our adventure in Florence when we realized it was raining. It NEVER RAINS in Florence…so I was a little upset, but it ended up drying up around noon, so the day wasn’t ruined. This day I basically showed mom and dad all around where I live…my school, the river, all the piazzas, the duomo, the piazza michaelangelo (where they had to hike up steps again haha) the ponte vecchio, and their favorite, the central market. Mom saw the meat man and almost had a heart attack, like me. He’s amazing. We had GREAT food from Nerbones, the famous lunch stop in the central market, where we ate pasta ragu and dad had a huge fresh sandwich. He didn’t try the tripe though…we spent the day leisurely shopping, trying on leather coats, and just enjoying Florence. That night we ate at this really nice place that looked fancier than it actually was. I ordered a pasta that was spicy as anything but delicious!

Thursday morning we woke up and drove to Asolo, a town about an hour outside Venice, where we would spend our last night before parting. The rain stayed strong in the morning, but by the mid afternoon it was clear and we enjoyed a nice stroll around town. It was really cute- windy streets and little cafes, amazing views overlooking the mountains. I had the BEST prosecco in the world in this little wine bar, and then we had an interesting dinner…we tried to go into this really nice looking place, but the waiter told us they were “full for the night.” Suspicious since there was tons of chairs open. Soo we ended up eating probably our worst meal of the week..just basic pasta but there was no one in the restaurant so the atmosphere was lacking. And then we passed the first place 2 hours later and there was still lots of tables open! So that was kind of a downer. Did they just not want to serve Americans?

Despite the last night and the dinner disaster, it was overall an AMAZING break. I loved seeing my parents, and it really wouldn’t have mattered where we went- just to be with them was the best vacation. Im halfway through this 15 week vacation, and now I’m looking forward to living in Florence and continuing this adventure!

The Friday morning at the end of fall break, I split with my parents as they headed home and I caught a plane from Treviso, Italy, to ENGLAND! I was so excited to see nan and granddad and the whole family. I got there around 11 am and had a huge smile as I saw nan, uncle james, and Katie waiting for me at arrivals at stansted airport. Katie looked the same, and was as funny as ever- uncle james is now sporting longer hair, and nan was just great- same as she always is. Anyways, after we left the airport (not before losing the car park ticket in the car and holding up traffic for 30 minutes) and headed to nans. Granddad was waiting for me at the door, so I gave him a big hug and then they gave me a tour of the new house! I hadn’t seen the new kitchen yet- 5 years old now I think- and it’s sooo nice. I’d love to have a big kitchen like that someday. Nan and granddad both love it, since it’s spacious and has a tv for granddad! And the new conservatory was great, too- the sun comes in and it warms up the whole room. Since aunt louise unfortunately was sick, james, Katie and jess (who now talks!!) stayed over nan’s until dinner, when had yummy fish and chips. I loved playing with Katie and jess- they are so funny and I love how they don’t feel weird with me even though I don’t see them for such long spurts. Katie hugged me from the airport so tight it almost made me cry.

So overall, this weekend was just a fun, relaxing, back-at-home style vacation. Nan and I went into Clacton on Saturday, where we somehow spent 5 or 6 hours just wandering in and out of shops and getting coffee. In this coffee shop we ordered a bagel and cream cheese, one of the food items I miss most from America, and the bagel came with literally a smearrr of cream cheese. I MISS NEW YORK BAGELS! Pick-a-bagel style from this summer..mmm. still, we had a laugh about it and ate it anyway cuz we were hungry. Nan had made a big English breakfast that morning but after all that walking we deserved a little snack.

Saturday night we all lounged in the conservatory and watched some great English television that I am already addicted to- the X Factor (who will win? I like Lucy and Olly) Strictly come Dancing (like Dancing with the Stars) and Eastenders!! I can’t belive that show is still on! Its so funny how everyone watches it but its really just a sloppy soap opera. Still, I can see why it’s addicting. I think I fell asleep on the couch that night but nan put me to bed in my comfortable bed with my hot water bottle…oh no wait, that was Friday night. I almost forgot, Saturday night Alice, my cousin who seems to get older by the minute, took me out to where she works by the ocean! Its like a kids-club with a big stage and then drinks in the back..anyway, we got some drinks and I met all of her essex friends…who were all really nice. It was funny because they were so interested in me being American-which I’m not used to at all. Usually I’m gawking at all the English folk! But Alice and I had a great time cracking up at everything and catching up on the past few years. She’s grown up but she’s still my little cousin and it was great to see her.

Sunday some of the family came over for a big reunion evening dinner- james and lou, who was feeling better, Katie and jess, uncle pete and aunt Michele, alice and harry, nan and granddad, and me. Quite a big group but nan handled all the food and it was amazing- we made coronation chicken the night before and it was a hit! At least I loved it…that morning I had also gotten to see james and lou’s house, which was so cozy and perfect. Katie and jess each have their own room, which I’d be totally jealous of if I was 5. Katie had a whole wardrobe of princess dresses, and then tons of cute dolls and play toys. So fun! We played for a little bit before the party at nans. Then during the afternoon it was just a mix of playing with the cousins and catching up with all the aunts and uncles. It was such a nice afternoon. I loved seeing everyone, and really nothing’s changed- we just joked around, had some wine and some delicious food, and talked about everything. I really wish more of my own family could have been there, but there’s always next time….

The next morning I sadly left nan and granddads and headed back for pisa- I wasn’t too sad leaving nan…at least I didn’t let myself get too sad. I wish I could have stayed longer, but life moves on, and at least I got to see them at all. I also loved talking to both of them that weekend about their early lives- I think now that I’m old enough to appreciate it, I love hearing it even more. Nan talks about the bomb shelters in London during the war, and being best friends with Doris in the 40s and getting dresses for their joint weddings. And granddad told me hilarious stories about the second world war and the time he was stationed in Naples for 3 years. He really got to travel all over, and he has some interesting stories..a love interest in rome, climbing mount Vesuvius and getting in trouble, making friends with the Americans, etc….i loved hearing every minute of it.

And so that’s my perfect fall break. I’m actually writing the end of this about 2 weeks later- most of it was written right when I got back, but I just never had the time to put in online. Coming up next will be my weekend in Dublin for Halloween, and my weekend in France and Spain with aunt Pauline and Uncle Steve. It just keeps getting better….